After
having traveled from north to south Lebanon with Jorge and enjoying an amazing
trip, I was radiant.
What healthier therapy!!!
What healthier therapy!!!
On
October 28th I departed to Nepal for attending Mani Rimdu, sherpa’s festival in
Sagarmatha National Park, as well visiting Chitwan National Park, going on a
pilgrimage to Lumbini, the city where Gautama Buddha was born and traveling to other
areas of the country hand on hand by my friend and guide Ambar Tamang. Blossom
Expeditions www.blossomexpeditions.com, his travel company, tailored a
twenty-five days trip for
me. Before
leaving for Nepal, I received at home my beloved Berliner friends Stefan and
Sandra. I had limited
period of time to prepare a precise luggage for doing a trekking and staying some days in
the jungle. Thank to
Ambar, he had sent me a complete list of all necessary outdoor gears, packing
was not very complicated.
Meteorological conditions in the mountains are highly unpredictable and
you lack nothing. A
day before leaving home, I received bad news from Marian, my friend Joaquin
have already passed away ten days ago. Words
simply failed me. I didn’t know how to say to his wife. Joaquin and I have met in Ethiopia a few years ago,
time to time we chatted, sharing our travel experiences but mainly we were
worried about the corrupted political situation in Spain. We have held highly
esteemed.
What a sad year! How many beloved friends had passed away? Among the others, Manolo Folgado, a friend from València’s Central Market; Vicentica, an adolescence’s friend; German Francisco, my mother’s cousin; Julio, Vinalesa’s Mayor and my uncle Vicente. As
well, Joaquin.
Furthermore, on November, 1st was the tenth anniversary of my father’s
death and it was the first year I was not at home. Traveling to Nepal without many expectations even
without no time to reread the itinerary but I was really happy to meet Ambar
again. Recently,
I have read some books written by lamas about Buddha’s life, some basic
concepts about Buddhism and therapeutic benefits of meditation. Through
reading, I wanted to lay foundations for being acquitted myself with the
Buddhism dimension but I have to confess it is not easy to understand. It is
quite difficult! For
this trip, I took the necessary but still incomplete Nepal Lonely Planet’s
guide and a book named “The Crossing Place. A journey among the Armenians”
by Philip Marsden for the moments of relaxation and solitude. Among many books
I have chosen it after knowing more about the Armenians in Lebanon, thank to Pierre Ananiguian, Libantrek’s city guide www.libantrek.com. I arrived at
Kathmandu’s airport after two stopovers in Madrid and Doha and more than
twenty-four hours travel. Luckily, the airport has improved significantly
ground facilities and services as well visa procedures, baggage claim, and
customs clearance are faster and safer than a year ago. In front of the
arrivals door of the airport was Ambar saying NAMASTE to me. What a joy to meet
us again! It was
too late, immediately, we went to the hotel located in Thamel, I was exhausted
and I need to sleep. Kathmandu received me with a congested
traffic, bumped pavement and dust in everywhere. Despite these
discomforts, streets are full of life.
What a sad year! How many beloved friends had passed away? Among the others, Manolo Folgado, a friend from València’s Central Market; Vicentica, an adolescence’s friend; German Francisco, my mother’s cousin; Julio, Vinalesa’s Mayor and my uncle Vicente. As
One
of a kind Thamel’s neighborhood is considered a hot spot for tourism, tourists,
and mountaineers come there, it boats all-categories hotels, a wide selection
of restaurants and
gastronomies. As well as, there are a large number of
specialized shops, travel agencies and vendors commonly sold many items. Here,
it is difficult to be bored; unfortunately, resting well is quite difficult.
Thamel holds all parties after successful trekkings and climbings. Once at the hotel and
paid the services purchased I went to rest. Early morning, we left the hotel to
Pharping with four Canadian from Edmonton doing a small trek, enjoying stunning
vistas of Kathmandu’s valley simultaneously eating a tasty dhal-bat. Before coming back to
Kathmandu, we accompanied our companions to Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery,
what a nice place to rest!. I could have never imagined. That night, Ambar invited a welcome dinner in a cozy
garden-terrace near to the hotel; I was going to meet our trek-mate. Only, I
know he was American. When
I saw him, I was speechless.
I thought: “he is too old”.
Ufff! Michael
lives in Seattle and he is 77 years old, traveler, very cultured, talkative,
with progressive ideas and anti-Trump. Decidedly, I was worried and a bit upset. At that
moment all I could think about was how I will do our trek but the dinner was
very nice. Early
we went to Lukla by plane to begin our trek into the Sagarmatha National Park.
It has been declared UNESCO heritage site since 1979. Sadly, Lukla is
considered the most dangerous airport in the world; it was difficult to cope
with my thinking. Just
before driving to Kathmandu’s airport and sitting in the hotel hall I read a
detailed article about all accidents happened in Lukla’s runway. If I didn’t want to
read it! What inappropriate reading! What distress! During the flight, I couldn’t forget any detail
about the accidents. At the moment of landing, I closed my eyes.
Lukla
received me with breathtaking views, blue cloudless skies, many mountaineers
and porters, herds of donkeys, horses or buffaloes loaded with mountaineers or
alpinist gear and mainly
groceries for people living in the National Park. We already were at 2.860 m and
everything is loaded
by men or animals on their backs.
At last, we were in Khumbu’s region, the Land of the Sherpa. It’s the
most known ethnic group in Nepal, thank the biggest mountain climbing records.
Today, Sherpa people run most of the tea-houses, restaurants, shops and luxury
hotels. Also, they are experienced climbers who help international mountain
climbers groups to get the highest summits. Some years ago, Sherpa people were very poor and
migrated towards the wealthier Nepali regions to get some money. Nowadays, they
generate work and incomes for other ethnics groups with a considerable volume
of business, Sherpa people enjoy a good economic status. While we were taking a tasty tea, we received our
first setback, the porter contracted didn’t attend the meeting point even
didn’t answer back the phone call.
What
lack of formality! I thought. Immediately, Ambar diligently solved the problem.
Finally, we have already porter. His name is Nima Sherpa. He was in charge of
taking Michael, I and his equipment are along the trek. His physical appearance
is not robust
enough, not very tall, dark skin and a kind smile who didn’t
abandon despite his limited English language skill. Hiking with more than 30 kg
in his back all day, our luggage was in time and in good conditions in our next
tea-houses room. At last, we started to hike. I was content, greeting
shopkeepers and local people with a NAMASTE. Buildings are well-built with
doors and windows painted in intensive colours, landscapes left me breathless and the trek atmosphere was
very cordial despite the overcrowded path with hikers from around the world. Unexpectedly,
we walked very slowly, Michael set the pace of our trek. Some negative
thinkings penetrated my mind making feel unhappy. Indeed, I took the
opportunity to chat with other hikers, porters or simply, enjoying the
landscapes and Sherpa's life while I photographed nonstop. Ambar is a clever
man and suggested me I was not very relaxed. He kept an eye on Michael.
I
had to reflect and change my mind. I
told me: "take advantage of walking with a 77 man-year-old. At his age, I
wish you have the physical and mental strength to do it. Learn it! I guess!
Since then, it was all going to be made better. In addition, Michael
speaks excellent
English, with many idioms and telling us many anecdotes. I
thought: I am so lucky. I have free English teacher for me during the trek. Once time into the
Park, there were hikers from almost every European country as well
Nord-Americans, Australians, New-Zealanders also, Koreans, Chinese, Russians,
Hindus,... even Burmese. This is the greatest mountain pilgrimage to get
Everest Base Camp. It
listened to many different languages, most of the trekkers had their own
porters. These men belong to different ethnic groups and speak their own
languages come from other Nepali regions to earn a salary. Most of them are
young, poorly dressed, walking with a flip-flop or slide slippers upon rocks,
carrying over their backs overloaded packages tied with a string to front and
waist, with a short crutch for resting, blackened face and a badly combed hair.
They broke my heart. The
contrast with the clothing the hikers wore was obscene. But, they have to earn
some money and have always worn this kind of shoes.
The
path is multi-ethnic and a veritable Babel tower. The majority religion confession in Khumbu is
Buddhism displaying its symbols along the trek. Always walking near the stupa
and mani-walls in a clockwise
direction. Also, rotating uncountable wheels-prayers and reciting
the mantra OM
MANI PADME HUM. This
is the most famous and spread Buddhism mantra to get mental clarity, love and
to increase compassion. The path is adorned with multi-coloured prayers flags and khata written with OM
MANI PADME HUM spreading the mantra by the wind in every corner. As well, trekkers and
porters share the path with rows of animals loaded with equipment gear even
hydrocarbons. Animals and people save shift to cross long and narrow bridges
adorned with flag prayers and khata that connect mountains over
rivers, at heights that give vertigo without bothering others. If in Lukla the
protagonists are horses and donkeys, gaining height appear buffaloes, then dzo
(a hybrid between the yak and domesticated buffalo) and from 3.500 meters high
strong and mistrustful yaks with their herders. Between the magnificence of the landscapes and the
life of the path, I forgot the hikers I lived it serene and intensely.
I
was in the home of the gods.
Our
destination was Namche Bazaar 3.440 at its low point for altitude acclimatisation before arriving
our destination, Tengboche monastery. The footpath is very pleasant, with lush
forest, rushing rivers, warm tea-houses and mainly life where tradition and
Sherpa's culture
is mixed.
After a long hiking, we arrived at the tea-house at dusk where we will
sleep. We had a warm welcoming, a long waited warm shower, and a tasty dinner. I slept deeply. It was our altitude
acclimatisation
day. The rule says: after having climbed a total of 600 altitude meters in a
day, you must devote one whole day to altitude acclimatisation and stay overnight at the same
altitude. Doing a little trekking leading up to a short stay at a greater
altitude before returning and staying overnight at the previous altitude. Early in the morning,
we took a tea a bit far from the exclusive Hotel Everest View, one of the
highest hotels in the world. After that, Ambar and I will visit Khumjung. The footpath was
terribly steep and tough, after almost an hour hiking the views left me deaf,
motionless, my heart shrunk and tears flowed from my eyes. At the time,
memories from my father and his brothers were with me. Slow-motion images of my
life with them. I was the happiest man on the top of the world. It
has never happened to me. It was so beautiful. I couldn't imagine it. You can not imagine it too. The
views of Mount Everest 8.848 meters high and Lhotse 8.516 meters and other
giants overwhelmed me but Ama Dablan 6.812 meters beauty intoxicated me.
What
a beautiful silhouette! It is the perfect mountain! I couldn't stop seeing it
nor taking pictures. Everest
mountain is higher but Ama Dablam is BEAUTIFUL. It is not necessary
any
adjective superlative. Acclimatization
goes very good, nor vomits nor headaches. We kept on hiking to Khumjung, the
biggest sherpa town in Khumbu. Once there, after having lunch in a welcoming
and warm guest-house, we visited the second oldest monastery in the area with a
fine Tibetan architecture.
Inside the temple, a Yeti's crane is kept and venerated by Sherpa's
people. They support the legend. We returned to Namche Bazaar for sleeping. But, before having
dinner we enjoyed taking a coffee and eating a tasty apfelstrudel. It was a luxury. As well as, there are
some mountain clothing shops, pharmacies, doctors, restaurants, Internet-café, German bakeries, cobblers,...it
is the last chance for provisioning before hiking into high mountains.
On
the way to Tengboche, the forests mostly are junipers, blue pines, and
rhododendrons. Yaks lines begin to appear, it is necessary to keep a minimum
safety distance from the animals, you cannot trust them. But, the presence of
the highest mountains of the world
points the path to follow. I couldn't stop
seeing them and taking pictures from all angles. I was very excited. Rhododendron is the
national tree of Nepal, numerous in these latitudes, there are thirty-five colours of flowers cataloged
in the National Park. What beautiful will be in blossoming period! Imagine it! A spectacle! After 9 hours hiking, who crossed a door-stupa with
beautiful mandalas frescoes, spinning the mani-wheels and reciting
OM-MANI-PADME-HUM. In front of us, it was the Monastery of Tengboche. We hugged. Thus far,
we had succeeded. The monastery architecture is Tibetan style, immediately I
wanted to take pictures but Ambar, patiently, repeated me: "I will stay
three days here. You will have plenty of time". Immediately, we went to
the guest-house, Ambar has chosen with a view of the monastery. I thanked him.
Ambar has these details
with his clients. He always gives you the best one. After sunset, temperatures
dropped below zero. In the evening I enjoyed reading the book about the
Armenians inside my sleeping back. The guest-house gave us tasty meals and hot
drinks, service was prompt and fast. Ambar was charged with us being well cared
for. During
these days we attended the Mani Rimdu's ceremonies, the Sherpa's festival. Once
there, we found out lamas made the late change. The dates of the festival are
calculated according to the lunar calendar. The festival starts on the new moon
and it seems very difficult to guess for them. The first day, lamas offered a dance rehearsal
without masks, the second day, it's the Blessing day and Empowerment,
the third, the Masked Ball and finally, the Puja, in this
ceremony bad spirits are burnt. Sadly, we didn't see the last festival day. What a pity, despite many checking Ambar did
before programming our trek!
After leaving our luggage at the hotel, immediately we went to the
monastery. On the next days, we couldn't visit it. We attended a religious
ceremony very symbolic between songs and prayers. The first two days, after
having breakfast and before starting the ceremonies we made short hiking. The
first day, we climbed a summit for taking breathtaking photographies and the
second day, we visited a female monastery in Deboche. There, meanwhile I was
enjoying the frescoes of the temple, I lost a wool glove.
What
rage! It was very cold morning!
We
attended the lamas' performance without masks. Only trekkers, not local people
there. Next day,
it was the Blessing and Empowerment ceremony, sherpa well-dressed came from all
directions. Women dressed in elegant aprons and wore colourful bandanas tied tightly
around
their heads. Festival started with a procession with
lamas, some members of the Sherpa community who carried banners as well accompanied
by music band walking over mandalas painted on the ground. The atmosphere was
involved very close attention. Sherpa's people were very excited and bowing
lamas.I
wanted to capture the moment but it was not easy to take pictures. I was so
nervous and being aware of not keeping an eye on Ambar. Eventually, blessing ceremony started, Sherpa's
people squeezed and occupying the first rows. Women distributed hot tea and
biscuits to attendees. My body thanked it. There, it was the revered and respected Guru
Rimpoche, a reincarnated lama for blessing us. Firstly, the lamas, after them
Sherpa's people and at the end the others attendees among the barges and
impatience Guru Rimpoche blessed and the lamas placed khataaround the
necks and gave us the medicine for a long life full of welfare.
Immediately,
I took them. After
that, we were chatting with the lamas for awhile. At 8 o'clock in the morning, we were already in the
monastery's patio for attending the masks'
dance. Ambar told me where I had to
sit. I was surrounded by Sherpa people in a sunny place where I was eager to
start the performance. With Sherpa punctuality and the sounds of the two big
trumpets started the dance. Immediately, the lamas greeted the audience astheatre actors do. During the performance,
they were worried everybody was sitting and comfortable. At the sunset, these dance performances finished.
During the festival, women Sherpa offered us hot and tasty tea-milk, Sherpa
pastries, biscuits, chocolates even oranges, apples and bananas, Ferrero-Rocher
chocolates too. An
exotic touch in these altitudes. It was a true party! Once the dance finished, the lamas congratulated
themselves having fulfilled far exceeded their expectations. I thought:
"after the dances, they were shattered and the lamas have still to
celebrate the puja". The next day we come back. There, near from
heaven, I have taken the elixir of life medicine and I have seen to dance the
lamas in the clouds. On
the way back, I couldn't stop turning round to say goodbye to the mountains. As
I hiked, I continued taking pictures, chatting with porters and trekkers and
prudently, letting the yaks' caravan pass staying in a safe place.
I
was ecstatic, overwhelmed with such beauty. Eventually, I came to Namche Bazaar. There,
something unexpected happened.
Ang Norbu, the tea house's owner prepared the most special room of the
home, the chapel for us. He with pride showed me, the altar was well
decorated
with nice illumination and full of carpets. There, I will spend the night. After five
deprivations days, I took a very hot shower, changed my clothes and shaved. It
was necessary. A bit later, we had a tasty dinner and I went to my bed. Lying near the window
without closing curtains, the sky was full of stars. I kept wide
awake all night long. I was touching Heaven. We just needed to come to Lukla, returning along the
same path we did. I continued photographing incessantly. No adjectives of mine
could describe so much natural beauty. In Lukla, we spent the night, the next morning we
flew to Kathmandu. What stomach-ache!
The airport is an organised chaos when we were about to get on the plane, the wheel of
a small trailed burst in front of us. What an explosion! It startled me. I was
so shocked.
We
came to Kathmandu and immediately, starved, I went to eat a pizza. After that,
I had a
rejuvenation Ayurvedic
massage. I was well-deserved. The masseuses are
"untouchables" women, war widows and victims of human trafficking or
domestic violence. It is necessary to help them as well, massages are superb! Firstly, spiritually
and now, physically I was satisfied and content. The trip with Michael was just about to finish. But,
we have still to visit Swayambhunath temple, more popularly known as Monkey
Temple where pious Newari Buddhist spin wheels prayers meanwhile murmur
mantras. Afterward, to visit Durbar square where the consequences of the devastating earthquake have been really
terrible. Today,
it seeks to recover the former splendour among agitated rickshaws, flower vendors for offerings,
brash shadus, families, sacred cows, and temples where Hinduism
worshippers pray and offer as well the Kumari's residence, a living goddess
until she reaches puberty and reverts to being a normal mortal. There is a very special atmosphere. Both places are UNESCO
World Heritage Site. But,
an untoward accident changed the plans; Michael fell in the very short time
after arriving at Temple's Monkeys.
How much blood! What's a bad luck! Immediately, we went to the hospital. Michael stayed
calm at all times. Ambar bought everything needed to clean wounds and
medications prescribed by doctors as well nose radiographs. He has a hairline
crack in the bone nose.
Ambar didn't spare any effort and money at the hospital. Michael
returned to the hotel and we went to have dinner "momos" in a Tibetan
restaurant. We did a leisurely visit to Temple's Monkey and Durbar Square
having a great time. Later, the hospital bills were paid to Ambar by Michael. In the evening, we
enjoyed a farewell dinner with Michael. Traveling with
Michael, a 77 years-old man taught me an excellent living lesson about keeping
calm and maintaining confidence in difficult moments.
Early
in the morning, Ambar and I flew to Bharatpur located in the lowlands of Tarai.
From there, we visited Chitwan National Park and Lumbini. After getting off the
plane, warm and
nice temperatures made me remove my jacket. Now, mountain life,
Buddhism and ethnic groups with Mongolian features stayed behind me. It was the
time of harvesting rice. The agricultural activity was frenetic in the rice
fields, mills, and towns. Here the main religion is Hinduism women wear colourful saris, navels uncovered in contrast
with an important Sunnis Muslims settlement women covered black-dressed with a niqab with only their eyes
visible. Here,
people have Aryan features.
Visiting Nepal is to cohabit with different ethnic groups and religions.
The cultural richness of the country is immense, full of contrasts that will
not leave you indifferent.
Every single inch I wanted to stop the Car for taking pictures. I want to capture
the life. Ambar
has booked for us jungle activities, canoeing, birdwatching, Tharu
cultural programme and elephant breeding center with a private guide for us who
ornithologist lover, Hindu Brahman, the highest caste of Hindus. Ambar
and I have a lot of fun with him.
Birds reminded Joaquin had a great fondness for ornithology. How I
missed him in Chitwan
National Park!
In
Chitwan sanctuary live the rare one-horned Indian rhino (Gaida in Nepali language), the Asian
elephant (Hathi), the Royal Bengal tiger (Bagh), the gharial, a rare crocodile and
the sloth bear (Bhalu). All are very dangerous and extremely difficult
to see them. I would have
liked to see them very
much. It is not the best time to see them the grassland is very high. But, there are deer,
monkeys, panthers, wild boars and many kinds of birds. I have seen some wild animals but unfortunately,
none of the big five, only a tiger footprint. The English writer Rudyard Kipling was inspired by a
park as Chitwan to write his famous "The jungle book", using in the
Nepali language the animals' names for giving everlasting life their very world
famous characters. I didn't want to abandon the park without having a shower
with an elephant. During five minutes I returned to being a child and giving to
act with complete freedom.
Laughed! It was a desire accomplished since I was a kid. Never, it is
too late! It was
a bit sad when we said goodbye to Bhuwan, our guide after that,
we went to Lumbini, the holy city of the Buddhist, by a private car. After seven-hours
we went to Lumbini, the holy city of the Buddhist, by a private car. After seven-hours
traveling and my nerves completely broken arrived at the quiet
Lumbini. Reckless driving in Nepal is very common, we have different traffic
regulations. I couldn't stop seeing the beautiful landscapes and rural life
despite closing my eyes during overtaking but immediately being opened to enjoy
them. Every day, Lumbini receives thousands of pilgrims from countries with
faith Buddhism as well some Western tourists to pray in the Maya Devi temple in
which Buddha was born. It is a multiracial and multicultural city; the amount
of attires is amazing. The religious diversity doesn't provoke any friction. Restaurant
offer diversity of cuisines from all Buddhism countries, green Thai curries,
Vietnamese roll springs or
Chinese noodles even the highly refined Japanese
food. Also, a large number of Italian meals and indeed, Nepali cuisine with
some influences from India specially spiced curries. A good opportunity for
tasting a great variety of meals. That's how it went. In front of Maya's Devi,
a Japanese architecture has designed a large park known as Lumbini Development
Zone which there are numerous monasteries or meditations centers that have been
or are being constructed by Theravada or Mahayana Buddhism communities from
around the world. Seen from the sky, it will be as a large mandala. As well we
did a pilgrimage to some places where Buddha lived, everything was very
spiritual but the life in Terai was really surprising for me. There is so much life
on the street... But,
we had to come back to Kathmandu and we still had a few visits programmed
before returning home.
I was completely satisfied with everything I have enjoyed. I had no words. I had no longer
I was completely satisfied with everything I have enjoyed. I had no words. I had no longer
My travel was on the verge of being completed and enjoying the last moments in Nepal visiting Panauti, a medieval city with Newari architecture untouched by the devastating
Finally, we arrived at Balthali a well-located and welcoming guest-house let us enjoy and say goodbye to the mountains. There, Hari Kaji, the resort director offered flavoured teas and
They were tears of happiness. I was in Shangri-La, at the back high and snowed-capped mountains, fine gardens with flowers as in spring season when it is autumn and golden roofs
I
want to come back to Nepal again.
When
I got home, after a long and exhausting travel, my mother asked me if I will
return
Many
thanks, rho.
I
come back soon, rho!
This
writing is dedicated to my father and his brothers, German, Vicente and Maria
thank your brotherhood and generosity with us. We have many anecdotes but many
experiences to remember us.
